A rerun of our 2012 ride from Hook of Holland to Fulda with the next ‘generation’ of rider – Jacob. We set off on Sunday 22nd June arriving in Fulda on Sunday 29th June. A slightly different route to fit our accomodation planned using Google maps and cycling maps we had from our 2012 ride. By happy coincidence our arrival in Fulda coincided with their biennial walking and cycling pilgrimage.
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Sadly David was not able to join us due to ill health. Maria joined us at short notice and used short train journeys to reduce the average daily mileage of 48 miles to 31 miles. Over the 7½ days riding A/J/M did 368 miles and Maria 249. Total up was 2296m and down 2023m.
We departed Rownhams 21/6 to catch the overnight ferry Harwich to Hook of Holland with a smooth crossing.
Day 1 – Hook of Holland to Utrecht 57.5 miles
We were fourth to passport control, parked up, bikes unloaded and on the road by 9:30 am. Taking the bikes over on the car is cheaper than cycling onto the boat. We used the Long Stay car park at the ferry terminal – £46 for 10 days. Using Google and printed maps we progressed well with the moderate tail wind to Delft and then to the east of Zoetermeer.
Maria then took the train to our destination and we then progressed on the good Dutch cycle network arriving in Utrecht just before 5
We stayed in the stayokay Hostel in the centre – a 4 bed bunk room with ensuite – very good and reasonable price. Overnight free parking was in the cycle garage opposite.
Day 2 – Utrecht to Elten 53 miles
We were blessed again with a moderate tail wind which helped us in another 50+ mile day. Just a few spots of rain, Maria took the train to Ede where we met up and then progressed on the impressive Dutch cycle network
At Arnhem we crossed the Rhine to enter Germany just before Elten
and then to our overnight at Hotel Wanders – very good with garage parking for the bikes.
Day 3 Elten to Dorsten – 48 miles
A cloudy start with some drizzle mid morning and sections of tail wind as we followed the Rhine cycle way. At Emmerich Maria caught the train and we joined up again at Merhoog with a convenient bakery for lunch.
Then an afternoon cycling through gently undulating farmland with
short breaks, then a final section along the banks of the river Lippe to east of Dorsten and our overnight at Hotel Grutering and a lovely steak meal
Day 4 Dorsten to Werl – 47 miles
We were away by 9 for a 10 mile ride to Haltern am See, through fields of asparagus and soft fruit. We also passed one of many farm wedding displays we would see through our pilgrimage
Maria then caught the train with a change to Bork. Due to delays we thought she would miss the connection but answered prayer delayed the other train to, and we met up as planned.
A hot day that required stops at supermarkets for ice creams and cold drinks.
Google maps picked up some very good cycle routes through towns like Werne. Then lanes through open farmland to our overnight north west of Werl.
We are staying at Lindenschanke. They have many stay who are on pilgrim routes that pass through Werl. The hotel owner had our route up on Google maps soon after we arrived! They also have cold beers in the fridge for 3 euros, so 4 were quickly consumed! Recommended – both the hotel and the beers!
Day 5 Werl to Olsberg – 48 miles
A challenging day with hills and in the afternoon thunderstorms. We travelled to the west of Werl then over a ridge with views of the mountains we had to cross to reach the Sauerland
We joined the Ruhr cycle path to Arnsberg where Maria caught the train. Shortly afterwards the heavens opened and the 3 of us got a good soaking caught in open country
Soon the sun came out and we continued up the valley. We missed a closure sign on the cycle path so had to retrace our ‘steps’. We met Maria at Bigge and were grateful she had the food purchased for our self catering stay just south of Olsberg at Steinhelle.
Day 6 Olsberg to Schönstadt – 44 miles
A challenging day. In light drizzle we all cycled 10km uphill to Siedlinghausen and a late breakfast at a bakery/cafe
Maria took the train to the ski resort of Winterburg while A/J/M cycled another 10km uphill to meet her at the station. We then cycled though the town and past the ski lift. The lake behind us is used for the snow canons during the winter. The area is also a popular walking and mountain biking area in summer
A fantastic 15km downhill ‘cruise’ to Hallenburg then followed on a dedicated bike route……
A few navigational errors and a number of forest track sections made it a slow afternoon and we arrived at 6pm at our self catering accomodation in the beautiful Bavarian village of Schonstadt. Highly recommended
Day 7 – Schönstadt to Lauterbach – 41 miles
A very hot day for a cycle over undulating country through farmland and beautiful Bavarian villages. We passed close Amöneburg
Maria caught the train at Alsfeld to our destination while we cycled on in hot conditions to approach Lauterbach from the north west. A great view from the ridge above Lauterbach across the valley towards Fulda and the Black Forest beyond
A lovely 8km cruise downhill to our overnight at Hotel Libers, Lauterbach – recommended. Has a dedicated bike room.
Day 8 – Lauterbach to Fulda – 16 miles
The final 23 km on the R2 cycle route took us to Fulda.
Our arrival coincided with their biennial family pilgrimage and we were treated to a memorable afternoon of shared food and fellowship.
at 1pm we processed to the cathedral for a service
and afterwards ice cream, cake & cold drinks.
A memorable end to our pilgrimage. We stayed for 2 nights in B&B Hotel by the station. Some railway noise, but thankfully air conditioned rooms in the 30C daytime temperatures. Recommended with a locked bike room in the lower ground floor
Monday 30/6 – Day in Fulda
A day in Fulda looking at the ‘sights’.
Many linked to Boniface.
his tomb behind the altar in the cathedral
St Michaels church next to the cathedral has a crypt from the 9th century
and some beautiful gardens
Tuesday 1/7 – travel day back to Hook of Holland
Our return travel was on 3 trains. Fulda – Frankfurt – Utrecht – Den Haag with booked bike spaces.
Another very warm day. Utrecht station was chaotic as all trains going to Amsterdam were either cancelled or rerouted and so people were running between platforms trying to keep up with the constant changes. By God’s grace we were just about to change platforms when a train next to us with lots of spaces was allocated to our route.
Due to the delays we arrived in Den Haag at 6pm, and the 2 hour cycle ride to Hook of Holland meant we made the ferry with 1 hour to spare! A lovely flat crossing with overnight cabin
Wednesday 2/7 – Car from Harwich to home arriving noon
During the trip no punctures. A pannier bag problem solved with cable ties was the only ‘mechanical’.
Mike Bunce July 2025